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Aging Skin Update-September
2001
Protection Against
Photoaging
Photoaging
is the term that describes damage to the
skin caused by intense and chronic exposure to sunlight. The visible
effects of photoaging are fine wrinkles, mottling and pigmentation of
the skin, and skin roughness—changes that are usually associated with
chronologic aging (calendar years). But, photoaging is not a good
indicator of chronologic age; it just makes a person to look older than
his or her chronologic age. The three approaches to counter photoaging
are:
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Avoid the midday sun
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Prevention by use of
photoprotective agents—sunscreen and clothing
-
Skin rejuvenation treatments
(Click on Treatments for Aging Skin)
Photoprotection is the use of
physical and/or chemical agents to prevent the skin-damaging effects of
ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sunlight. Physical agents are clothing,
umbrellas and parasols, awnings and tents that protect you from sun when
you are outdoors. Chemical agents are sunscreens you apply to your skin.
The effects of UV radiation on the
skin are related to the intensity and duration of UV exposure. Avoiding
intense, chronic exposure to solar radiation—for example, avoiding
activities such as sun bathing—is one important way to protect against
photoaging. Photoaging can be minimized by avoiding sun exposure between
10 AM and 4 PM. If you cannot avoid sun exposure between these peak
hours of UV intensity, use sun-protective measures such as wearing a
broad-brimmed hat and long-sleeved sun-protective clothing. You also
need a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher if you are going
to be exposed to sunlight for more than 20 minutes. An important point
to remember: Even on cloudy days, 80 percent of the sun’s UV rays
reach the ground. A cloudy day is not a reason to skimp on
photoprotection.
Photoprotective Topical Sunscreens
There are two basic types of topical
sunscreens:
-
Absorbers of UV radiation—chemical
sunscreen ingredients such as para-amino benzoic acid (PABA),
cinnamates, salicylates and benzophenones
-
Reflectors of UV radiation—physical
sunscreen ingredients such as titanium or zinc oxide
A third class of topical agents is
the antioxidants such as vitamins E and C that do not absorb or reflect
UV radiation but are believed to enhance the ability to skin cells to
repair damage induced by UV radiation.
Sunscreens usually consist of a
combination of several photoprotective chemicals. The degree of
protection they provide is measured as a sun protective factor (SPF).
Persons who always burn rather than tan—typically a person with pale
white skin, red or blond hair, and blue or green eyes—are at highest
risk for photoaging and skin cancer and should always use maximum
photoprotection. Dermatologists strongly recommend a broad-spectrum
sunscreen with SPF of 15 or higher for all skin types. SPF is determined
in the United States by a guideline accepted by sunscreen manufacturers
and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Topical sunscreens are
marketed as lotions, creams, gels and ointments; the type you choose is
a matter of personal choice.
An effective sunscreen should also be
broad-spectrum, providing protection against both the A and B
wavelengths of UV. Both UVA and UVB are present in sunlight and both can
cause skin damage. The UVB wavelengths are the principal cause of
sunburn. UVA can penetrate to deeper layers of the skin. Since most
chemical ingredients of sunscreens are most effective against either UVA
or UVB, many sunscreens are a mixture of UVA and UVB-absorbing
chemicals, or physical blocking agents such as zinc oxide. You can check
the label to see if a sunscreen provides both UVA and UVB protection. A
sunscreen providing only UVB protection is effective against sunburn but
less effective against the deeper penetrating UVA. You can also check
the label of a sunscreen product to see if it contains ingredients that
provide broad-spectrum (UVA-UVB) protection—e.g., oxybenzone,
cinnamates (octylmethyl cinnamate and cinoxate), sulisobenzone,
salicylates, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and avobenzone (Parsol 1789).
Suggestions to improve sunscreen
effectiveness:
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Apply sunscreen 20 minutes before
you go outdoors
-
Use about 1 ounce (enough to fill
a shot glass) to cover the entire body. Cover all exposed areas
liberally. Pay special attention to face, ears, nose, arms and legs.
Remember that lips can burn, too, so cover lips with a lip balm
sunscreen or SPF 15 or higher
-
Reapply every 2 hours, or after
swimming or heavy sweating (reapplying does not increase the SPF—it
just keeps the SPF at its maximum level)
Broad-spectrum sunscreens with SPF or
15 or higher and both UVA and UVB protection are effective in preventing
actinic keratoses (AK), skin conditions that can be a precursor to skin
cancer. Effective sunscreen protection may also help to prevent the
development of melanoma, the most deadly skin cancer. (Click on
ActinicKeratosesNet
and MelanomaNet
for more information).
Side effects of sunscreens, if they
occur, are usually a contact irritant reaction to a chemical in the
sunscreen. Other possible side effects include phototoxicity or
photoallergy (due to interaction of chemicals in the sunscreen with
sunlight), and contact allergy. A sunscreen that causes a side effect
should be avoided. Persons with an existing skin condition such as acne,
eczema or other dermatitis, actinic keratoses or rosacea should consult
a dermatologist regarding selection of an appropriate sunscreen.
In
Summary: Criteria for Selecting a Sunscreen to Prevent Photoaging
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SPF of 15 or higher
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Broad-spectrum, providing both
UVA and UVB protection
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Does not cause skin irritation
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Does not worsen an existing skin
condition
-
Selecting Clothing for
Photoprotection
For maximum photoprotection you can
select clothing as well as sunscreen on the basis of SPF. Clothing with
a high SPF can block nearly 98 percent of UVA and UVB radiation—a
degree of protection especially important (1) if you burn easily and are
at high risk for photoaging, skin cancer and other sun-induced skin
conditions, and (2) if you spend a lot of time in the sun while hiking,
fishing, gardening, and working outdoors. Good sun protection is
important for children, also. Skin damage can begin early—80 percent
of sun exposure is received before age 18. Some epidemiologic studies
have indicated that heavy sun exposure in childhood is a risk factor for
melanoma (the deadliest form of skin cancer) later in life. (Click
on MelanomaNet
for a discussion of risk factors for melanoma).
For maximum photoprotection from
clothing:
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The clothing should provide
maximum body coverage—long pants, long-sleeved shirt, and
wide-brimmed hat
-
Tightly woven synthetic fabrics
made from nylon and polyester provide maximum protection. Tightly
woven cotton blends are nearly as UV protective and more comfortable
in high heat and humidity
-
Fabrics made specifically to
provide UV protection are made by U.S. manufacturers to meet SPF
specifications. A SPF of 15 or higher provides adequate UV
protection
-
A dermatologist can make
recommendations regarding selection of sun-protective clothing for
the needs of the individual patient
Skin Color and Risk for Photoaging
Skin tends to be more susceptible to
photoaging on the basis of skin color. In general, the fairer, less
pigmented the skin, the greater the risk for photoaging and other
sun-induced skin problems, including skin cancer:
Fitzpatrick Classification of Skin
Type
I Always burns, never tans (pale
white skin)
II Always burns easily, tans
minimally (white skin)
III Burns moderately, tans uniformly
(light brown skin)
IV Burns minimally, always tans well
(moderate brown skin)
V Rarely burns, tans profusely (dark
brown skin)
VI Never burns, (deeply pigmented
dark brown to black skin)
A person whose skin meets criteria
for Type 1 is likely to be a person with pale white skin, red or blond
hair, blue or green eyes, and Celtic (Irish, Scottish, Welsh, Breton)
ancestry. This description fits a significant fraction of the United
States population. A person with Type 1 skin is very sensitive to UV
radiation, burns easily, never tans, and is at risk for early onset of
skin damage that results in photoaging.
Skin Types II and III are
increasingly more pigmented shades of white, with tendency to burn
rather than tan, and moderate to strong risk for photoaging and other
sun-induced skin problems.
Types IV and V are "olive"
to moderate brown in skin color, sunburn minimally and tan easily, and
have moderate to low risk for photoaging and other sun-induced skin
problems.
Type VI is dark brown to black in
skin color, never sunburns, and has a minimal risk for photoaging. Risk
for skin cancers related to sun exposure is very minimal.
Dark-skinned persons and
white-skinned persons are, however, equally at risk for dehydration with
long-duration sun exposure.
World-wide statistics on skin cancer
have led dermatologists to recommend broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 15
or higher for all skin types.
References
AAD "Dermatology Insights"
Spring 2000.
AAD Facts About Sunscreens.
AAD Guidelines for Photoaging/Photodamage.
Pathak MA et al. Sun-protective
agents: formulation, effects, and side effects. In: Freedberg I M et al
(Eds.). Fitzpatrick’s Dermatology in General Medicine, 5th
ed. New York: McGraw-Hill; 1999:2742-2763. |