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AgingSkinNet Article
Protection Against Photoaging
"Photoaging"
is the term that describes damage
to the skin caused by intense and chronic exposure to sunlight. The
visible effects of photoaging are fine wrinkles, mottling and
pigmentation of the skin, and skin roughness—changes that are
usually associated with chronologic aging (calendar years). But,
photoaging is not a good indicator of chronologic age; it just makes
a person to look older than his or her chronologic age. The three
approaches to counter photoaging are:
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Avoid the midday sun
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Prevention by use of photoprotective
agents—sunscreen and clothing
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Skin rejuvenation treatments (Click on
Cosmetic Procedures)
Photoprotection is the use of physical and/or
chemical agents to prevent the skin-damaging effects of ultraviolet
(UV) radiation in sunlight. Physical agents are clothing, umbrellas
and parasols, awnings and tents that protect you from sun when you
are outdoors. Chemical agents are sunscreens you apply to your skin.
The effects of UV radiation on the skin are
related to the intensity and duration of UV exposure. Avoiding
intense, chronic exposure to solar radiation—for example, avoiding
activities such as sun bathing—is one important way to protect
against photoaging. Photoaging can be minimized by avoiding sun
exposure between 10 AM and 4 PM. If you cannot avoid sun exposure
between these peak hours of UV intensity, use sun-protective
measures such as wearing a broad-brimmed hat and long-sleeved
sun-protective clothing. You also need a broad-spectrum sunscreen
with SPF 30 or higher if you are going to be exposed to sunlight for
more than 20 minutes. An important point to remember: Even on cloudy
days, 80 percent of the sun’s UV rays reach the ground. A cloudy day
is not a reason to skimp on photoprotection.
Photoprotective Topical Sunscreens
There are two basic types of topical sunscreens:
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Absorbers of UV radiation—chemical sunscreen
ingredients such as para-amino benzoic acid (PABA), cinnamates,
salicylates and benzophenones
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Reflectors of UV radiation—physical sunscreen
ingredients such as titanium or zinc oxide
A third class of topical agents is the
antioxidants such as vitamins E and C that do not absorb or reflect
UV radiation but are believed to enhance the ability to skin cells
to repair damage induced by UV radiation.
Sunscreens usually consist of a combination of
several photoprotective chemicals. The degree of protection they
provide is measured as a sun protective factor (SPF). Persons who
always burn rather than tan—typically a person with pale white skin,
red or blond hair, and blue or green eyes—are at highest risk for
photoaging and skin cancer and should always use maximum
photoprotection. Dermatologists strongly recommend a broad-spectrum
sunscreen with SPF of 30 or higher for all skin types. SPF is
determined in the United States by a guideline accepted by sunscreen
manufacturers and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Topical
sunscreens are marketed as lotions, creams, gels and ointments; the
type you choose is a matter of personal choice.
An effective sunscreen should also be
broad-spectrum, providing protection against both the A and B
wavelengths of UV. Both UVA and UVB are present in sunlight and both
can cause skin damage. The UVB wavelengths are the principal cause
of sunburn. UVA can penetrate to deeper layers of the skin. Since
most chemical ingredients of sunscreens are most effective against
either UVA or UVB, many sunscreens are a mixture of UVA and
UVB-absorbing chemicals, or physical blocking agents such as zinc
oxide. You can check the label to see if a sunscreen provides both
UVA and UVB protection. A sunscreen providing only UVB protection is
effective against sunburn but less effective against the deeper
penetrating UVA. You can also check the label of a sunscreen product
to see if it contains ingredients that provide broad-spectrum
(UVA-UVB) protection—e.g., oxybenzone, cinnamates (octylmethyl
cinnamate and cinoxate), sulisobenzone, salicylates, titanium oxide,
zinc oxide, and avobenzone (Parsol 1789).
Suggestions to improve sunscreen
effectiveness:
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Apply sunscreen 20 minutes before you go
outdoors
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Use about 1 ounce (enough to fill a shot
glass) to cover the entire body. Cover all exposed areas
liberally. Pay special attention to face, ears, nose, arms and
legs. Remember that lips can burn, too, so cover lips with a lip
balm sunscreen or SPF 30 or higher
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Reapply
approximately
every 2 hours, or after swimming or
heavy sweating (reapplying does not increase the SPF—it just keeps
the SPF at its maximum level)
Broad-spectrum sunscreens with SPF or 30 or
higher and both UVA and UVB protection are effective in preventing
actinic keratoses (AK), skin conditions that can be a precursor to
skin cancer. Effective sunscreen protection may also help to prevent
the development of melanoma, the most deadly skin cancer.
Side effects of sunscreens, if they occur, are
usually a contact irritant reaction to a chemical in the sunscreen.
Other possible side effects include phototoxicity or photoallergy
(due to interaction of chemicals in the sunscreen with sunlight),
and contact allergy. A sunscreen that causes a side effect should be
avoided. Persons with an existing skin condition such as acne,
eczema or other dermatitis, actinic keratoses or rosacea should
consult a dermatologist regarding selection of an appropriate
sunscreen.
In Summary:
Criteria for Selecting a Sunscreen to Prevent Photoaging
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SPF of 30 or higher
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Broad-spectrum, providing both UVA and UVB
protection
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Does not cause skin irritation
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Does not worsen an existing skin condition
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Selecting Clothing for Photoprotection
For maximum photoprotection you can select
clothing as well as sunscreen on the basis of SPF. Clothing with a
high SPF can block nearly 98 percent of UVA and UVB radiation—a
degree of protection especially important (1) if you burn easily and
are at high risk for photoaging, skin cancer and other sun-induced
skin conditions, and (2) if you spend a lot of time in the sun while
hiking, fishing, gardening, and working outdoors. Good sun
protection is important for children, also. Skin damage can begin
early—80 percent of sun exposure is received before age 18. Some
epidemiologic studies have indicated that heavy sun exposure in
childhood is a risk factor for melanoma (the deadliest form of skin
cancer) later in life.
For maximum photoprotection from clothing:
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The clothing should provide maximum body
coverage—long pants, long-sleeved shirt, and wide-brimmed hat
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Tightly woven synthetic fabrics made from
nylon and polyester provide maximum protection. Tightly woven
cotton blends are nearly as UV protective and more comfortable in
high heat and humidity
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Fabrics made specifically to provide UV
protection are made by U.S. manufacturers to meet SPF
specifications. A SPF of 30 or higher provides adequate UV
protection
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A dermatologist can make recommendations
regarding selection of sun-protective clothing for the needs of
the individual patient
Skin Color and Risk for Photoaging
Skin tends to be more susceptible to
photoaging on the basis of skin color. In general, the fairer, less
pigmented the skin, the greater the risk for photoaging and other
sun-induced skin problems, including skin cancer:
Fitzpatrick Classification of Skin Type
I - Always burns, never tans (pale
white skin)
II - Always burns easily, tans minimally (white
skin)
III - Burns moderately, tans uniformly (light
brown skin)
IV - Burns minimally, always tans well (moderate
brown skin)
V - Rarely burns, tans profusely (dark brown skin)
VI - Never burns, (deeply pigmented dark brown to
black skin)
A person whose skin meets criteria for Type 1 is
likely to be a person with pale white skin, red or blond hair, blue
or green eyes, and Celtic (Irish, Scottish, Welsh, Breton) ancestry.
This description fits a significant fraction of the United States
population. A person with Type 1 skin is very sensitive to UV
radiation, burns easily, never tans, and is at risk for early onset
of skin damage that results in photoaging.
Skin Types II and III are increasingly more
pigmented shades of white, with tendency to burn rather than tan,
and moderate to strong risk for photoaging and other sun-induced
skin problems.
Types IV and V are "olive" to moderate brown in
skin color, sunburn minimally and tan easily, and have moderate to
low risk for photoaging and other sun-induced skin problems.
Type VI is dark brown to black in skin color,
never sunburns, and has a minimal risk for photoaging. Risk for skin
cancers related to sun exposure is very minimal.
Dark-skinned persons and white-skinned persons
are, however, equally at risk for dehydration with long-duration sun
exposure.
World-wide statistics on skin cancer have led
dermatologists to recommend broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or
higher for all skin types.
References:
• AAD "Dermatology
Insights" Spring 2000.
• AAD Facts About Sunscreens.
• AAD Guidelines for Photoaging/Photodamage.
• Pathak MA et al. Sun-protective agents: formulation,
effects, and side effects. In: Freedberg I M et
al (Eds.). Fitzpatrick’s Dermatology in General Medicine, 5th
ed. New York: McGraw-Hill;
1999:2742-2763.

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